“Bought this with some websites feedback it does a good job, and seriously could be the best stapler guy I’ve used. Others said that it occasionally pinched their hands when they activated its trigger, and others felt it lacked power. However, some customers said that it had less power than they anticipated. Happy customers also mentioned its durability. Those who left positive reviews for this staple gun said that it was lightweight, which made it easy to handle. You can also read this tools buying guide for more shopping tips on tools.Ĭons Made from aluminum, which is less durable than steel Costs more than guns that come with staples What Customers Are Saying We researched the best staple guns on Amazon and explained our top recommendations below. If a staple gun sounds like the tool you need for your next DIY project, the This Old House Reviews Team is here to help. Our top overall choice is the Stanley SharpShooter Plus Staple/Nail Gun for its heavy-duty design and ability to work on a variety of staple types. To help you narrow down your options and find the best staple gun for your needs, The This Old House Reviews Team researched the top staple guns on the market. Staple guns typically carry a price point of between $15–$40, depending on their design and efficiency levels. The main difference is that nail guns work better with harder materials, such as wood, while staple guns fasten carpet, upholstery, foam, and other softer materials. Nail guns and staple guns serve similar functions, as they both temporarily or permanently fasten materials. Our Reviews Team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services. Plus you run the risk of marring the surface of the painting if you laid it face down to staple on the back of the bar.Affiliate Disclosure: We may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website. I can see where it might work if you did all your stapling on the back side of the stretcher bars but most conventional stretching is stapled on the outside edge and would make hooking the bar on a table edge very difficult to do. That would inhibit the use of the stretching pliers, I am afraid. If you can picture how a canvas is physically stretched and where the stretching pliers is placed and how the whole tamale is held for you to staple each spot, you don't have the luxury of placing the edge of the stretcher bar on the edge of a table top. "Have you tried placing the edge of the stretcher bar on a solid backing such as a sturdy table or bench and holding the gun real firmly onto the surface you are stapling" But, even with that convenience, as your compressor loses pressure with use down to that point where it kicks on again to build up to the pressure that is set on your regulator, it will drive the staples with less and less power until such time as it builds back up to whatever pressure you set for it at the air regulator.īuying an air compressor and a pneumatic stapler won't solve this problem completely so you need to have a hammer close by to tap in those stubborn staples as you stretch. This is also a lesser problem with pneumatic staplers although you have the option of increasing or decreasing the "power" of your air stapler according to the type of wood stretcher you are stapling onto by setting your air regulator to a higher or lower operating air pressure. So, if the wood has "hard spots" in it also, it is natural for the staple to meet with more resistence than in the soft wood spots and it won't go in completely. If you are driving a staple into a "soft spot", it will probably seat itself properly because the spring setting of the stapler which causes the "power" of the stapler to drive in the staple is consistent and set by the factory to hammer, at the same strength, every staple you attempt to drive into any wood. The problem isn't with the stapler most times, it is with the composition of the wood stretcher bar and that you have no control over.Īt the risk of Baer challenging my knowledge base, I will simply say that there are "hard spots" and "soft spots" in most every species of wood. Regarding your stapler problem, there really isn't much you can do to make every staple sink into the wood stretcher just at the proper level. First of all, a warm welcome to the Grumble to ya!! You will find a wealth of information here if you learn how to search the archives and find old threads dealing with whatever problem you are facing.
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